This past Wednesday I invited my sister on a lunch date. We are new to the world of those who languidly lunch in the midday and we were most excited to begin our foray into this new world at the Flying Pig on Lexington, in Mount Kisco.
The Flying Pig, not to be confused with April Bloomfield's Spotted Pig in the West Village, has a clear enough manifesto: buy local, cook local, serve local to introduce diners to the abundance of high-quality produce and livestock from the Hudson River Valley and other nearby farming regions. This is a manifesto I can appreciate, but I was curious to see how a restaurant in Westchester could truly live by it (see my Monday, May 18 for my review of DC's Founding Farmers, another restaurant striving to uphold the local food movement values by serving what they call "true food & drink").
I was pleasantly surprised. The Flying Pig is a bit tricky to spot on the road, but upon entrance, the pig rules--in a good way. There are cleverly painted signs of pigs with mottos like "Be Nice or Leave" (a motto developed in New Orleans). The vibe is comfortable with an upscale tinge to it. Diners, ranging from chatty Westchester moms debating the virtues of Facebook to business partners discussing the latest market statistics, are generally well dressed and respectful of the placidity that is nursed by the pale wood paneling, soft music, and gentle lighting. The service is also respectful of the diners: They are attentive from a far and can sense when you are ready to order or need a fresh drink. Although pleasant, the waiters should lend more guidance and insight about the menu and about the restaurant's philosophy as that would only increase the diner's appreciation of the food. My favorite part about the pre-meal experience however lies in the bread diners are presented with shortly after being seated. They are not typical rolls, more of a tempting hybrid between biscuits and scones, with a hint of cheddar running through them. Basic common sense was all that kept us from escaping surreptitiously with pail in hand.
My sister and I, though tempted by the avocado and cheddar sandwich and the chopped salad with lentils, both decided on the veggie burgers. As a new vegetarian (and a home-cook who has tried many times to create a yummy version from scratch), I was especially intrigued by the veggie burger, which comes with grilled red onions (locally grown) and luxurious avocado slices (mid-bite in the back of my mind, a pang of guilt hit. There is no way those avocados are local) and chewy, toasted multi-grain bread with a veneer of not-quite-basily-enough aioli. On the side, we both thoroughly enjoyed the couscous and fresh vegetable salad as a sort of nouveau take on pasta salad and the lightly dressed tender arugula leaves.
We both thought that the $12 price tag for these delectable burgers seemed a bit steep, considering it was midday in Westchester, not midday in Midtown. But, after some consideration, we realized a few things. First, this is not going to become a replacement for an everyday, run-of-the-mill, grab-and-go lunch. It is intended to be special, yet accessible. And it is. Second, supporting local agriculture often means a more expensive up-front cost--without the hidden costs to society or the environment. Third, we have never gotten so much pleasure out of twelve dollars.
